- Jan 2, 2022
- 6 min read

DIY Wall Organizer Adventures - Part 2

Today's wall organizer adventure involves less planning, little/no ironing, and little sewing to produce a lot of needed organizers in a hurry! There are times in your life when you need to reorganize and put things away quickly: moving, lifestyle/routine changes, etc. Doesn't it seem like the same moment we need to organize a lot fast is also the same moment when we don't have time nor the proper set-up to make what is needed? The ironing board and sewing machine could be put away, or a place to set-up just doesn't exist yet! But don't give up! Whatever your situation, you can do a little to settle the immediate problem at hand! You can always go back later when you have the proper time and space to make prettier organizers.

I recently ran into that problem: I needed to organize and put away all of our containers immediately, and shelving was out of the question. A drawstring bag is fairly easy, but I came up with a way to make a bag that can be converted to hang from a dowel rod, and vice versa. That makes these bags perfect for the many changes and moves ahead! Just take them down from their dowel rod or hook, tie closed, and it's packed!

Before I show you, from least effort/equipment to most, what I made, I want to emphasize again that I only made these to address the problem at hand. I did not make them pretty and patterned to impress people. Some of the following I think turned out kinda cute anyways. I do have plans to make some prettier convertible bags, but at a slower pace.

1) No Sew

First up is the "No Sewing" solution, for those stressful times when you have zero space or access to equipment. The solution is to use a pillowcase and strips of scrap fabric. Cut slits in the top hem of the pillowcase to make an opening on each side. You can make two slits on each side for each half of the bag or just one. It's up to you. You just finished the casing! Take strips of fabric from your scrappy scraps (the ones that will be used for rugs or stuffing) and knot them together to make them long enough. Thread them through the slits (I use a knitting needle to help). You should be able to pull out your fabric scrap ties on either end to make a drawstring bag with a 'handle' on either side. Knot the fabric ties to keep them from getting lost in the casing. Hang from hooks on the wall. To use the dowel rod, simply push the dowel rod through one half of the casing. I use Command hooks to hang the dowel rods on the back of closet doors, perfect for lightweight containers.

2) Small Sewing

Next are the convertible bags that use a little bit of sewing, but not much. Pick a piece of scrap fabric that is a bit bigger than just scrappy, either two pieces the size you want the bag to be or one piece twice as tall. You can even sew a few pieces together to make it big enough. Using your scissors or a cutting mat, cut your piece into a rectangular shape. If you have smaller pieces, you will need two. If you have a large enough piece, double the height of your bag (one less seam). Keep in mind that the height of your fabric piece will be shortened by the casing.

Now, sew the casing on each end where your top will be. Make sure your casing is wide enough to accommodate the dowel rod, if you will be using one. Make casing wide enough to easily thread with strips of knotted fabric. (Don't make it harder on yourself) With no ironing required, you can just fold over the edge and sew it down, using painter's tape or something on your machine to line up the folded edge. Don't worry about turning the raw edges under or zig-zagging the raw edges. This project isn't for long lasting, great looking bags. If you are in a real rush and are working with wonky fabric (because, let's face it, I have yet to discover a thrifted bed sheet that IS sewn and hemmed straight on grain from the factory), you can just go for it and sew the casing as best you can. Go ahead. These bags are just to solve a problem. They don't have to be perfect!

Then, sew the bag together. DO NOT sew the casings together or closed! If you have two pieces, I would sew the bottom together first. Then, for either the (former) two pieces or the extra tall piece, sew the sides together starting at your stitching line on the casings (keeping the casings open). Stitch down to the bottom.

Make ties from strips of scrap fabric, knotting them together to make them longer. You can also do the fancier join (if your strips are wider): Snip a notch (straight line / bigger button hole) in either end of each strip. Pull the new strip through the notch on the old strip. Put one end of the new strip through its own notch on the other end, while it is still threaded through the old strip. Pull tight.

Thread the ties through the casings (knitting needle helps), or put a dowel rod through one side of the casing (hold onto the ties for later). Hang it up!

3) Medium Sewing

With a little more sewing (and possibly some ironing), you can finish your raw edges to make it last longer!

Iron the fabric before cutting. Measure and cut with a ruler.
Fold in raw edges on the casing. Either single or double fold. Always start with the small side edges of the casing (the openings where the dowel rod or ties will go). Sew those down first. Then fold and pin/sew the longer horizontal edge of the casing (along the width). *Note: You will need to slant your seam line a little when sewing the sides together (starting at the casing seam line).

After sewing the bottom together (if two pieces), zigzag the seam edges to make them last longer.
After sewing the sides together, zigzag the seam edges to make them last longer.
Sew strips of fabric together (instead of tying): One way is to sew the edges together (right sides together) to join. Another way: place one strip right side up horizontal (parallel to the sewing machine/table edge), and the other strip right side down but lying vertically (perpendicular to the first strip). It should look like an upside down and backwards L, with the vertical strip facing you (and corner of the L near the needle). The strips should overlap in a square. Sew from top left corner to bottom right corner of that square. If you aren't sure that you have the sewing line correct, unfold the fabric along the imaginary seam line to check.

4) More sewing

A more finished/designed look involves a separate casing so that all seams are straight (instead of slanting the side seam at the casing to finish). Use two pieces, preferably a different color than the bag, to make the casing. Fold in the raw edges at the openings and sew down.

To quickly attach the casing, fold it in half wrong sides together and match both edges with the right side of one side of the bag. Then sew. Flip the casing up, press, then top stitch the raw edges down. If you have more time, sew right sides together one edge of the casing with one side of the bag. Press. Fold and press the raw edge of the other side of the casing. Top stitch the casing down on the inside of the bag (watch your seam line on the right side), covering all raw edges.

Repeat for the other side of the bag. Then, right sides together, finish the bottom and sides of the bag. Zigzag the raw edges of the bag. Done!

5) Most finished / convertible drawstring bag

The most finished look with finesse involves one single casing with finished and reinforced openings on either sides. You are making a true drawstring bag. Just make sure that the openings are large enough to accommodate your drawstring (especially if it's thicker fabric) and a dowel rod if you choose. Make sure your openings are on the outside of the bag and not on the inside to work with a dowel rod! Reinforce your buttonhole/drawstring opening with interfacing or stiff pieces of fabric to prevent tearing.

*Tip: Not enough fabric for larger pieces? Cut out a bunch of strips all the same width, then sew those strips together. I sew them into one long chain, then start sewing the sides together and cutting when I get to the end. Cutting at the end makes two pieces. Continue sewing and cutting until you have a nice piece. Make sure your line of strips don't get twisted, or you will end up sewing a mobius!